May 2009 was a period of some uncertainty for me. At work we had been offered voluntary redundancy and I had expressed an interest. But the future looks turbulent for a time.
Nevertheless I am not one to ponder long on the “might be’s” and so I continued with my plans for a solo holiday which commenced on Sunday 3rd May with a train journey on Eurostar from Ashford to Paris.
Here it was a short walk to the Gare de L’Est where by connecting train down to Mulhouse was going to leave from. I had travelled first class in some comfort on the Eurostar but on the French railways (and the remainder of the trip) I travelled in standard class. The TGV train from Paris to Mulhouse was busy. In fact every seat was taken. Yje window seat that I had reserved was in fact a pillar between windows and because of the high back of the seats in front I did feel somewhat hemmed in and largely unable to view the countryside passing by. Therefore the TGV was a means to an end rather than an enjoyable experience. At Mulhouse I had booked a room in the Victoria Garden Suites Hotel which was a fair distance from the railway station. But it was a calm evening, not too hot but pleasant, and despite heavy bags I undertook the walk of a mile or so on foot. The hotel was modern but severely functional. The check-in was okay and the lift and especially the corridors to my room smelt extremely pleasant, as if just polished. The room itself was bland and overlooked a factory wall. It didn’t matter – it was a place to put my head down for the night.
I explored Mulhouse’s old centre on foot that Sunday evening. There was very little life in what I saw, especially bearing in mind that this is a student town. However, there seemed to be some “action” of a sort near an Irish pub and I had my tea at a nearby branch of “Subway”.
The next day it was raining heavily but a regular local transportation bus was able to whisk me to the railway station for one euro and thirty cents in less than ten minutes. I now caught the train to Basel where I was to change onto a Swiss railways service. I was stopped by the border police and briefly questioned before I was allowed on my way.
A train via Zurich to Chur, then a change onto the Rhatische Bahn, a narrow gauge system that traverses the Alps, were utlised to get me deep into the south east of that country in a very short time. Before I was fully aware my train was climbing and the air became cooler. Seeing snow and ice in patches soon became a case of seeing snow and ice predominate as my train crossed the Bernina Pass, near St. Moritz.
The train then descends in great loops and spirals into the green valleys in the vicinity of Poschiavo.
Finally my train reached my destination and base for the next seven nights, the town of Tirano. I spend days from here returning to those Alpine slopes on the train or else at Varenna on Lake Como where beautiful unspoilt waterfront houses make an attractive setting in comfortably warm weather against a backdrop of mountains.
The Swiss trains were generally on time and, of course, spotless. I was often the only occupant of the carriage which was great and enabled me to have the window down for photography purposes without worrying that any of my fellow passengers were going to be in a draught. This was especially important at such location as shown below (which is known as Bernina Lagalb).
When the trains were not running through snowfields they were running through green alpine valleys and calling at occasional villages. The light use of the railway at this time of year really makes it quite special and the hours passed quickly…..too quickly!
The Italian trains weren’t too bad. Quite comfortable although less immaculate than the Swiss trains and often unofficially decorated with graffiti. Their usage was much heavier. The Italian stations offered excellent bars where it was possible to buy local wine and snacks at reasonable prices. This is one of the main pleasures of travelling – to sit like one of the locals listening to chatter that you cannot understand while you sip very good local produce and eat fresh bread and some regional cheese or meat speciality. Never has waiting for a train been so pleasant and I repeated this on many occasions.
My hotel in Tirano was okay. A three star place with an efficient reception and restaurant. A narrow room opening out onto a communal terrace was comfortable enough but the accoustics due to paper thin walls were often unwelcome. This was a shame because it took the edge off of my pleasure in the place.
For my evening dinner which I had opted to take in the hotel I quickly became aware that my lack of knowledge of the Italian language was going to be a problem. They spoke no English and the menus were also purely in the local language. Oh well. I eat anything except goat products and plunged in at random every evening, choosing items because I liked the look of the words! It was fun, even if I did end up, one evening with three slices of cheese on my dinner plate accompanied by boiled potatoes and carrots. I still ate it.
After seven days of travelling from Tirano on day trips I decided to head on to Venice for my last two nights. The first train took me into Milan where I was surprised to find a big gap in the timetable for a Venice train. So rather than wait potentially at the mercy of petty thieves I decided to take a train to Bologna and a local train from there to Venice. It worked fine even if it was a long way round.
I stayed in a very comfortable four star hotel literally directly opposite the entrance to Venice Mestre station. This is not Venice itself but that delightful place can be reached on the train in ten minutes from Mestre and the trains run, it seems, every ten minutes or more.
I loved Venice. My only fear is that I can be so enchanted by photographic opportunities and the feel and look of the place that I could easily end up plunging into a canal. Not everyone seemed to be sharing by enjoyment, though. These four passengers in a gondola seem to have had a disagreement about something!
Venice was great for two evenings of strolling. On my free day I decided to visit a historical vintage tramway line that doubles as a funicular railway in Trieste, two hours away on the train. Here I found a real transportation gem and some very friendly people.
My holiday ended the following day with a flight from Marco Polo airport in Venice back to London Gatwick. It was fun and I can highly recommend it to others who may have similar tastes!

















